A new exhibit examines how LGBTQ people have shaped fashion since as far back as the 18th century. Yes: the cone bra is accounted for.
How have LGBTQ individuals been making fashion statements since the 18th century? The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology seeks to answer that question with an exhibit opening in September called, "A Queer History Of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk." "Shows are intuitive. We had no idea gay marriage was going to blow up like it did so it was very timely," said exhibition curator Fred Denis, who spent two years putting together the show. "This industry — fashion designers, photographers, stylists, etc — has a hug gay and lesbian population and it always has but no one has ever said it. It was time we kind of addressed it on some level. We're looking at fashion history through a queer lenses."
Below, Denis takes us through a few pieces in the exhibit.
John Paul Gaultier Collection, 1984
"There was always this [idea] that gay men tortured women with fashion but I don't think that's correct," said Denis. "We don't put women into clothes they don't want to wear. John Paul Gaultier, openly gay, chooses in some of his collections to hyper-feminize the female body and that's what he's doing here. He's totally dramatizing it."
Via: Museum of FIT
Man's three piece suit, 1790-1800
"When we started this project, we thought, 'Oh we'll probably pick it up in the early 20th century,'" said Denis, who was able to trace gay fashion influences all the way back to the late 18th century. "The very aristocratic 18th century male was a peacock and that was acceptable. By the end of the century, aristocracy shied away from [flamboyance] but gay men didn't."
Via: The Museum of FIT
Day dress circa 1882
"Oscar Wilde was a big proponent of romanticized clothes," said Denis. In the 19th century, "people were wearing black and tailored suits, Oscar was wearing velvet breeches, big collars and earth tones. It was very much a flamboyant style."
Via: The Museum of FIT
